Deep in the hills of southeastern Missouri, a pair of spring-fed rivers winds through limestone bluffs and ancient Ozark forest. Ozark National Scenic Riverways holds a distinction most visitors never know about. Established on August 27, 1964, it became America’s first national park area created to protect a river system.
No entrance fee, free gravel bar camping, over a million visitors a year, and Fine stylistically on the bottom.
Why were the rivers protected?
Congress authorized the Ozark National Scenic Riverways in 1964 under President Lyndon B. Johnson, protecting 134 miles of the Current and Jacks Fork rivers across 80,785 acres in four Missouri counties.
The park served as a prototype for the National Wild and Scenic Rivers Act of 1968. Missouri had already established Big Spring, Round Spring, and Alley Spring as state parks in 1924 and transferred all 3 to the National Park Service by 1970.
In the 1930s, the Civilian Conservation Corps built roads, campgrounds, and a historic dining lodge at Big Spring that still stands. The park contains over more than 300 springs, over 400 caves, and archaeological sites that reflect 12,000 years of human habitation. Both rivers are designated as Outstanding National Resource Waters by the state of Missouri.
Big Spring’s massive flow
Just south of Van Buren, Big Spring is the largest spring in Missouri and one of the biggest in the National Park System. On an average day, it discharges around 286 million gallons of water, and the force of it is something you feel standing at the limestone bluff where it emerges. The water runs aqua-blue and holds a steady 58 degrees year-round, making it a cool escape in summer and a mild one in winter.
Underground, rainfall from as far as 45 miles away filters through a karst system, dissolving roughly 70 tons of limestone each day before reaching the surface. A paved wheelchair-accessible path leads from the parking area straight to the spring outlet. CCC-built structures nearby, including the historic dining lodge, add history to one of the most visually striking spots in the park.
Blue Spring’s depth
On the Current River, Blue Spring plunges 310 feet into the earth, making it the deepest spring in Missouri. To put that in perspective, the Statue of Liberty stands just 305 feet from base to torch. The Osage people once called it Spring of the Summer Sky, and the name fits.
It discharges about 90 million gallons daily, and its intense blue shifts with sunlight and changes after heavy rain. A flat quarter-mile trail leads to the overlook with no effort required. Swimming is not allowed. Visitors admire the spring from the overlook because swimming is prohibited
Few natural features in the Midwest produce this kind of deep, saturated blue, and Blue Spring is one of the most photographed spots in the park.
Alley Spring’s historic mill
Six miles west of Eminence, Alley Spring flows along the Jacks Fork River and releases about 81 million gallons of water daily. Most visitors come as much for the red roller mill beside the water as for the spring itself. George Washington McCaskill built the mill in 1893 using a turbine system rather than a water wheel.
It is listed on the National Register of Historic Places and has become a symbol of Ozark heritage. Just up the road, Storys Creek School, a one-room schoolhouse, offers a look at rural Ozark education from over a century ago. The surrounding campground has more than 160 sites and hosts summer amphitheater programs.
Alley Spring combines natural beauty, working history, and overnight access in one of the most well-rounded stops in the park.
Fun fact: In the park, visitors can find approximately 112 species of fish, 197 species of birds, 58 species of mammals (including feral horses, elk, and otters), 26 species of amphibians, and 46 species of reptiles. Additionally, about 1,000 different kinds of plants grow and thrive here.
Rocky Falls and Klepzig Mill
Rocky Falls drops about 40 feet over ancient igneous rock into a swimming pool that draws crowds on warm days. It is one of the most accessible natural features in the park and a favorite for families. Most visitors drive between the two sites, while the Ozark Trail passes nearby.
The trail between the two passes through Ozark forest and rough terrain that makes both destinations feel earned. A waterfall, a swimming hole, and a historic mill ruin along a single route is a rare combination. If you only have time for one hike, the Rocky Falls to Klepzig Mill stretch is a strong choice.
Devil’s Well underground lake
Most overlooks put you above something. Devil’s Well puts you below it. You descend stairs into a sinkhole cave, pass under a natural rock bridge, and reach a platform above an underground lake sitting roughly 100 feet below the surface.
The visit is brief but unlike anything else in the park. The Cave Spring Loop Trail starts at the Devil’s Well parking area and runs 4.6 to 5.7 miles through oak and pine forest with views of the Current River. It is a good way to stretch your legs after the cave.
Many repeat visitors to the riverways have never made the short detour to Devil’s Well, making it one of the park’s most underrated stops.
Wild horses in Shannon County
Shannon County is the only place in Missouri where wild horses run free. They are believed to be descendants of animals left behind by timber workers and farmers in the early 1900s. When the National Park Service moved to remove them in the early 1990s, local opposition was fierce enough that Congress stepped in.
President Bill Clinton signed a law in 1996 making the horses a permanent part of the riverways. The Missouri Wild Horse League manages four herds totaling around 50 horses. You are most likely to spot them near Shawnee Creek, Broadfoot, Round Spring, and Echo Bluff.
Park rules require staying at least 100 feet away at all times. The horses roam freely through fields and forest and are not fed or handled by park staff.
134-mile Ozark float
The Current and Jacks Fork together offer about 134 miles of spring-fed water to float. Because both rivers are spring-fed rather than runoff-driven, they stay cold and clear even in peak summer when most Midwest rivers run warm and murky. Float trips range from a few hours to multi-day runs with free gravel bar camping along the way.
Primitive gravel bar camping is free and generally does not require reservations, provided visitors follow National Park Service regulations. NPS-authorized outfitters handle canoe, kayak, and raft rentals and arrange vehicle shuttles.
Developed campgrounds at Big Spring, Round Spring, Alley Spring, Pulltite, and Two Rivers take reservations through Recreation.gov. Park headquarters sits at 404 Watercress Drive in Van Buren, about two and a half hours from St. Louis.
Little-known fact: The Ozark hellbender became Missouri’s official state amphibian in 2019. It breathes primarily through its skin because its lungs are extremely reduced.
TL;DR
- First NPS unit created to protect a river system, established August 27, 1964.
- Big Spring discharges 276 million gallons daily; Blue Spring is 310 feet deep.
- Alley Spring’s 1893 red mill, Rocky Falls, and Devil’s Well are top non-river stops.
- Wild horses became federally protected in 1996 under a law signed by President Clinton.
- No entrance fee; gravel bar camping is free with no reservation needed.
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This article was made with AI assistance and human editing.
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